HISTORY:
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The Fabulous Fior



Michelangelo Garden
By Marsha Garland

When North Beach Neighbors was newly formed in 1980, our fledgling group quickly became the catalyst for the creation of Michelangelo Park.

Michelangelo Park, in case you haven’t discovered this landscaped jewel in our neighborhood, is on the south side of the extraordinarily steep block of Greenwich Street between Jones and Leavenworth.

One day in early spring, a quiet teenage boy approached me on the street. He must have learned somehow that I was North Beach Neighbors’ president. Apparently he and his immigrant family lived near me. He was with his grandmother, who spoke no English, and his was hesitant at best. It was obvious he adored and respected the elderly woman as he guided her along the street by softly touching her elbow. The shy young man explained his grandmother wanted to garden.

In China, the grandmother had lived on a farm. Now that spring was here, her heart ached for the soil and the joy of planting and reaping, and marking the seasons.

The teenager told me there was an unused garden on public land up the hill on Greenwich Street. Together we hiked the steep block and that’s when I discovered the old run down Michelangelo Playground.

There was a rusty basketball hoop and a backboard for practicing tennis. The entire piece of land was covered with cracked tarmac and unruly weeds sprang through the cracks. A small brick shed with an old toilet was adjacent to the entrance. The east facing view from the virtually abandoned playground was stunning, as was a huge splashy purple bougainvillia that for years had threaded its tenacious spiky vine through a high chain link fence.

At the east side of the property, where shade lurked most of the day, was a long narrow strip of land. The strip was about three feet higher than the rest of the parcel. It was overrun with brambles that threatened to shred clothing and gouge arms and legs. Worst of all, the heavy clay soil was tamped solid, had a concrete like consistency and there was no topsoil at all.

An enormous and beautiful stone retaining wall held the weight of Russian Hill at bay on both the south, north and west sides of the property, which had originally been gouged out of the hill and was many feet below the surface of Greenwich Street.

Apparently the strip of land had been a Victory Garden during World War II. During World War II a nationwide movement encouraged citizens to grow food in backyards and public parks. Eight billion tons of food was produced in Victory Gardens around the country. There was even a large Victory Garden in front of City Hall where Civic Center Plaza is now.

Wood divider remnants separating old garden plots remained in place and when I stooped to inspect the poor, unpromising soil I found an old marble. The marble was an antique and made out of white marble, not glass, no doubt brought to North Beach by Italian immigrants.

I promised the boy and his grandmother that I would investigate to see if there was a way his grandmother could grow her garden there.

North Beach Neighbors’ Board of Directors went into action. It was soon determined that the property belonged to the SF Unified School District. It was intended for use as a playground for the nearby Sarah B. Cooper Elementary School on Jones between Greenwich and Lombard (now Yick Wo Elementary School, another story for the future).

With the help of the San Francisco Conservation Corps, we cleared the land, laid out a grid and formed eighteen 10’ x 10’ plots. We carted in topsoil and nurtured the land with manure produced for city gardeners by the San Francisco Zoo.

Some of the first NBN member gardeners were Rhoda Feldman, Nan McGuire, Patricia Kemerling, John Reed, Peter Garland, Joan Danielson, Dorothy Hodges, Debbie Koehler, Russ Wigglesworth, Barbara Wyeth, myself and, yes, the teenage boy and his grandmother.

Not long after the garden was initiated, the Board of Directors had the vision to turn the entire parcel of land into a park. A very creative three-way swap was engineered by then Supervisor Bill Maher to trade the land between SF Recreation & Park, the School District and the Redevelopment Agency.

Nan McGuire headed up a successful fund raising program to help pay for the park. A landscape architect, who lived nearby, led workshops and we all participated in the design process. The Trust for Public Land became involved, as did San Francisco League of Urban Gardeners (S.L.U.G.). The I.L.W.U. put in some money and bought a memorial bench for Harry Bridges. Others bought and planted trees in memory of loved ones.

But this is the story of the community garden, not of Michelangelo Park. The garden was the catalyst for the park. Many of us discovered our connection to the soil and to the rhythm of the growing seasons.

After several months our Chinese grandmother stopped gardening. We never found out why and I can only assume the family moved, or maybe she died never knowing what her passion for the soil eventually led to.

I remember the exquisite joy of pulling up my first radish and the subsequent disappointment upon realizing it wasn’t a bunch. Then there was the sublime pleasure of winning second prize ($50) in a national recipe contest in “Family Circle” magazine and following contest rules using only Michelangelo Garden produce to create an unusual potato salad.

And I’m happy to report that contrary to some in North Beach who think I’ve lost my marbles, I actually found more: smoothly worn, irregularly shaped white Carrara marbles from Italy.


Remembering Mario Crismani, the founder of Mario's Bohemian Cigar Store Caffe

Mario died on January 6, 2004 at age 90. He was born September 28, 1913 in Pola, Italy. Mario served in the Italian armed forces and afterwards worked as a mounted policeman in Rome. On a visit back to his hometown of Pola, Mario met his wife Liliana and chose to make his home for their family in Trieste, Italy, where he earned the position of Chief Inspector of the Police Department. After he retired from the police department, he immigrated with his wife and two children, Julie and Paolo, to San Francisco. In 1972 Mario and Liliana opened the now famous Mario's bohemian Cigar Store Caffe. Known as the master of bocce ball, Mario was frequently seen playing in Aquatic Park with his bocce teammates. Later he was named president of the San Francisco Bocce Ball Association. Mario is survived by his wife, Liliana, his children, Julie and Paolo, daughter-in-law Debbie, and grandchildren Fabio Stefani and Daniella and Dario Crismani.

Marilyn Monroe and Joe Di Maggio

Marilyn Monroe and Joe Di Maggio, on the day of their marriage at San Francisco's City Hall. The date of their wedding was January 14, 1954. After the wedding, they returned to North Beach for family photographs on the steps of Sts. Peter & Paul Church.

Jack Kerouac - icon of the Beat Generation of authors. Wrote On The Road.

NORTH BEACH
San Francisco’s Little Italy & Home of the Beats
 

If you love friendly urban neighborhoods with great restaurants, bars, caffes, and night clubs, together with interesting one-of-a-kind shops, then North Beach is for you.

North Beach’s colorful past encompasses Little Italy, the Barbary Coast and the Bohemian/Beatnik tradition. North Beach has the unhurried feeling of a village with all the amenities of an exciting big city. Generally regarded one of the country’s top urban neighborhoods, North Beach is referred to as the heart and soul of San Francisco. Named for a beach that became landfill in the 1800s, North Beach is nestled in an urban valley between Russian Hill and Telegraph Hill.

At the center of North Beach, the graceful Romanesque Saints Peter & Paul Church (known as the Italian Cathedral) rises above the green expanse of Washington Square, recently voted one of America’s greatest public places. This piazza is where festivals, rallies, art exhibits, impromptu picnics and lovers’ trysts take place year round.

Even though immigration from Italy peaked in 1913 and many North Beach Italians moved to outlying San Francisco neighborhoods and suburbs, the district maintains a distinctly Italian flavor.

North Beach has it all: romantic cable cars; Lombard Street (the “world’s crookedest” street); famous Coit Tower; landmark buildings; the challenging steep slopes of Russian Hill and Telegraph Hill; fantastic bay and city views; an outstanding, international selection of restaurants and caffes, clubs and saloons with live music, poetry readings and caffe opera; excellent small theaters and a diverse cluster of retail shops. Our cornerstones are the San Francisco Art Institute, City Lights Bookstore, and the National Shrine of St. Francis of Assisi, the City’s oldest parish church established during the Gold Rush.

North Beach’s famous streets each have unique identities. Today (Upper) Grant Avenue, formerly the heart of the Beats’ hangouts, is a four block stretch of contemporary fashion boutiques, bohemian enclaves and cafes. Neon clad Broadway, where Topless began in 1964, remains focused on adult entertainment, strip clubs and great restaurants. Caffeine filled Columbus Avenue is one of America’s great boulevards with views of the Transamerica Pyramid to the south and Mount Tamalpais in distant Marin to the north.

In North Beach not only do you hear Italian, Chinese, Farsi, Arabic, French and Spanish, you also hear bellowing, reassuring fog horns and barking sea lions from the nearby bay, as well as the incessant noisy chatter of wild parrots that have chosen to reside here.


A. P. Giannini

October 17, 2004 marked the 100th anniversary of the founding of the Bank of Italy, later Bank of America, by Amadeo Peter Giannini. From a tiny ethnic bank in North Beach, the Bank of Italy/Bank of America grew under the leadership of Giannini to become the world’s largest bank.

This bank played a vital role in the development of San Francisco, California, and eventually beyond, to have worldwide significance.

The story of A. P. Giannini also epitomizes the American immigrant experience in one of its most dramatic expressions.

Locals tell tales that Giannini started the Bank of Italy in the back of a saloon on Green Street. The first actual branch, however, was on the northwest corner of Columbus Avenue and Washington Street.

Mel Figoni, Sr.

Mel Figoni owned Figoni's Hardware. He worked at the shop since his early teens and eventually bought it, and stopped working just before his death at 89. He could account for every nail in the place. Fascinating old store, caught in a time warp.


For further information on the history of North Beach, contact the North Beach Chamber of Commerce at 415/989-2220, or info@sfnorthbeach.org